Morocco
My first trip to Morocco was over New Year’s 2014/2015. I’ve since been back many times, because while I was traveling in Fes, I met the man who would eventually become my husband. It’s a story for another time but I will tell it.
This page is going to be updated whenever I go back. But I’m going to start with the places I’ve been so far. I’ve been to many of the major cities in Morocco - Fes (of course), Marrakesh, Tangier, Agadir, Rabat, Casablanca. But I’ve also been to a number of smaller towns and have seen a lot of the country. I’m going to try to hit the highlights and give some tips for travel in this amazing country.
Fes
I’m going to start with my favorite city in Morocco. Fes is such a gem (and I’m not saying that just because it’s where my husband is from.) It is the historic center of arts, culture, and learning in Morocco. It is one of the former capitals of the country, is over 1200 years old, and is considered the home of the most confusing old Medina in the country. But it’s also a very vibrant city with lots of great restaurants and places to stay, and just so much life. This entry is going to be a little weird since I have spent more time there as a local than as a tourist, but I’ll try to give the highlights that most people will enjoy.
Recommendations
Wow, where to begin. For you first visit, a guided tour of the old medina is recommended. That will allow you to find your way around without getting lost.
Get a drink at the Hotel Les Meridines in the evening on their lovely terrace overlooking the city. One of the best views in the city.
Stay at a Riyad in the old Medina. There are many to choose from, and they often are absolutely beautiful. Riyad Layla was one of my favorites.
Fes is a city of industry, so seeing how they make the leather goods and the pottery are really interesting. Once you learn Fesi pottery styles, you’ll recognize it wherever you see it.
The restaurants are amazing in general. For food with a great view, try Bouanania right next to Bab Bou Jeloud can be great (and has the spiciest Harissa my husband has ever had and he’s a Harissa expert.) My favorite for a fancy meal is the restaurant at Hotel Saharai (which is also quite an amazing place to stay and has wonderful views of the city.) They have the best duck confit I’ve ever had. Of course, when I’m in Fes, we tend to eat at Cafe Blanco or Cafe L’Unica in the Ville Nouvelle. They’re super common cafe’s for locals. I’ve eaten at these two places more than anywhere else in Fes (and probably Morocco, except my in-laws house.)
Honestly, the museums are a little rough. This is true in a lot of Morocco. There is so much history and yet it really isn’t presented well. With the exception of a few locations, learning the history of Morocco is more needing to read a book than absorb the history from the location itself. Still worth it, though.
It’s weird going back through my photos of Fes. One would think it would be the city I have the most pictures of, but I really don’t. After my first trip there, I just didn’t end up taking as many pictures that would be appropriate for this blog since they’re pictures of hanging out with friends. Not much for the traveler.
But Fes really is an amazing city to visit as a tourist. It’s really interesting to visit Fes after visiting Marrakesh. I’d say that the best way to see Morocco would be to make sure you see those two cities. It feels more lived in than Marrakesh, like the other side of the Moroccan coin. The old Medina inside the city walls is such that, while I can find my way through the main arteries, if you asked me to find places I went to on my first trip, I never could again. It is home to one of the world’s oldest universities, some small museums, and is a pilgrimage site for the followers of Moulay Idriss. You can tell when you’re near the tomb because the area around the shrine is filled with the sellers of incense. The entire old medina is organized into shop types - the leather sellers give way to the textiles which leads to all the jewelers. It’s just amazing to wander. It also has a famous tannery area which is amazing to see (though not fun to smell.)
While I try to hit the old Medina every visit to Fes, I have spent most of my time outside the old city. The main street leading to the old city (Av. Hassan II) with it’s central park is bustling on warm evenings. The view from the park near Hotel Les Meridines offers amazing views over the city. And there are some lovely parks and other public spaces scattered throughout the city.
Marrakesh
This is the other city in Morocco. I always recommend people who travel to Morocco go to Fes and Marrakesh. Marrakesh is an amazing city. Those ideas you have of Morocco - they are of Marrakesh. It’s what all of us westerners think of when we think of Morocco. It’s beautiful and amazing. And their Medina is much easier to navigate than the Medina in Fes.
Recommendations
I highly recommend Le Jardin in Marrakesh. First, they have tortoises. And they are adorable. But their food is excellent and you can get a great glass of wine there.
When we were lost in the Medina of Marrakesh, we were able to sneak through Le Jardin and they were so friendly about it.